March 23rd, 2008 by Grant Posted in Beer and Food | No Comments »
For our first official pairing, Laura and I decided to attempt a slightly more creative take on a Belgian staple; Moules Frites paired with Gueuze. This recipe was formed really out of necessity when a casual browsing of the 4th St. Whole Foods turned into a splurge of three different brands of Oude Gueuze (Hanssen’s, 3 Fontein and Boon Marriage Parfait). After consulting my food/beer spreadsheet, it seemed we had some nice options, of which most thrived on seafood and some sort of citrus intervention. While ceviche is clearly one of the best options to pair with any sour beer, Laura and I were both looking for something a little more substantial for a weekend dinner. Therefore, we thought we’d go with the traditional Belgian route.
Rather than use a traditional black mussel, we used some large, colorful and fresher tasting mussels from New Zealand. Not only were these mussels larger than the traditional mussels you’d find at any supermarket, but they were a lot fresher tasting and no more expensive.
Given that we don’t have access to a frier in the apartment, we decided to make a slightly healthier side dish of oven baked potato strips rolled in some olive oil, salt and pepper. Laura also developed a nice aioli recipe for the dipping sauce. This one included some garlic, parsley and almonds for texture.
If you don’t know anything about Gueuze, this beer is a moderately sour/acidic ale fermented naturally by a variety of microbiota (wild yeast) in the air. Traditional Gueuze comes from in and around the country-side of Brussels, Belgium in the Senne Valley. Every terroir in the world has it’s own mixture and species of microbiota (San Francisco sourdough yeast is another), but this particular area is famous for how the particular combination of yeasts ferment the open coolships of wort (unfermented beer) over time, developing a wonderfully complex aroma and flavor profile. If you’ve heard of Lambic, it’s basically the same thing, but blended with various aged versions for more control, house creativity and consistency. The blending process usually takes 1, 2 and 3 year-old Lambics and combines them to a particular house flavor for a less pungent but more balanced angle. Post blending, they are served carbonated and enjoyed with Moules Frites for their ability to contrast the sweet-sea flavors of mussels with that of a sour, earthy beverage. The sourness also cuts through the fat in frites and traditional fatty dipping sauce (aioli).
Moules
Wash and debeard:
2lbs New Zealand Mussels
Place them in a large pot and add:
1 cup Gueuze
1 can diced tomatoes
1/2 cup minced parsley
2 tbsp chopped garlic
Cover the pot over high heat and cook 8-10 minutes. The New Zealand Mussels might already be open when you buy them, depending whether or not they were caught during spawning season (right now). If they aren’t open or you are using black mussels, wait until most of the mussels have opened. Use a slotted spoon to remove mussels and drizzle over:
1 tbsp of extra vigin olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
Frites
2 potatoes, sliced into 1/4 in. strips
Soak in cold water for 10 minutes then drain and dry well btwn towels
Roll in:
1 tbsp of olive oil
salt
pepper
Bake in oven @ 450F for 30- 40 minutes turning once and until crispy, golden brown
Aioli
Mince:
4 to 6 garlic cloves
Place in a bowl and whisk together with:
2 egg yolks, room temp
1/8 tsp salt
pepper to taste
Very slowly, and whisking constantly, add:
1 cup olive oil
Whisk in:
1 tsp fresh lemon juice
1/2 tsp cold waterAfter sauce has thickened add:
1/4 cup ground almonds
1/4 cup fresh breadcrumbs
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 tbsp fresh parsley
1/4 tsp salt, or more to taste
As a pairing, this was fantastic. Just as I mentioned before, the sweetness of the mussels and tomatoes were a nice contrast to the sour and tart Gueuze. My favorite part though, had to be the potatoes and aioli as the sourness and effervescence of the beer met the formidable flavor of garlic, parsley in the fatty sauce. The carbonation helped lift away the oil and the flavor/aroma married perfectly with the earthy flavors of the beer. Perfect.